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Moritzburg: 43 crates buried in the forest, 1945
The lodge here was called the Dianenburg first, after the goddess of the chase. Duke Moritz of Saxony raised it on a granite knoll in 1542, and by 1549 the documents were writing Moritzburch instead. What stands there now was Augustus the Strong's idea. He sketched it himself around 1703, an
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Chinon: the “impregnable” rock fell in 1205
Impregnable. That was the word for the rock above the Vienne, and for a long time it held. The Forteresse Royale de Chinon runs about four hundred meters along a tuffeau spur in Indre-et-Loire, over the medieval crossing into Touraine. Whoever held the ridge held the road from Tours. Henry II of
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Loches: the duke who painted his own dungeon
Three hundred meters of rock separate the two halves of Loches, in Touraine. At the south end, a keep about 37 meters tall, raised by Fulk Nerra between 1013 and 1035. Tree-ring dating moved that back some seventy years from where scholars had put it. At the north end, the Logis Royal, where
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Neuschwanstein: the throne hall has no throne
The throne hall has no throne. A church-like apse was built at its north end to hold one, and the throne was never made. That is the honest shape of Neuschwanstein, and this timeline is the reason for it. Ludwig II came to the Bavarian throne in 1864 at eighteen. He visited the restored Wartb
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Chantilly: the museum that can never lend a work
Two conditions came with the bequest. Never lend a single work. Never rearrange the galleries. Henri d'Orleans, duc d'Aumale, spent two decades of exile in England buying paintings, drawings and manuscripts. Allowed home in 1871, he found Chantilly dilapidated, rebuilt the Grand Chateau
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Vaux-le-Vicomte: the party that ended a career
Six in the evening, August 17, 1661. Louis XIV arrives from Fontainebleau with his mother and some six hundred courtiers. Nicolas Fouquet, superintendent of finances, had built Vaux-le-Vicomte to flatter his king, and he had spent four years doing it. Charles Le Brun personally guided the royal
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Charlottenburg burned in 1943. One woman saved it
Margarete Kuhn is on none of the signage, and Palace is standing because of her. It began in 1695 as a summer villa for Sophie Charlotte, a Hanoverian princess who filled it with poets and musicians and argued philosophy with Leibniz. She died in 1705 at 36, and her widower renamed the house for
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Eltz Castle: 34 generations on one rock
184,000 Mark, spent on doing as little as possible. That is what Count Karl zu Eltz laid out between 1845 and 1888 on his family's castle above the Elzbach, roughly fifteen million euros in today's money by the castle's own reckoning. What makes the work unusual is not the sum. It is
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Sanssouci: 12 rooms a king built to escape court
Frederick the Great did not want this palace to outlast him. He wrote that it should only last his lifetime, and he resisted even small repairs. Sanssouci sits above Potsdam on six vineyard terraces he ordered cut into a bare slope in 1744. The house went up on their crown between 1745 and 1747.
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Marksburg’s keep lost its top for two centuries
A fire in 1705 cost the Marksburg the round cap on its keep. The following year the remains were pulled down for building stone, and the tower stayed flat-topped for almost two hundred years. Look at the two old pictures here. The aquatint of about 1830 and the photochrom of the 1890s show the s
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Mespelbrunn: 614 years, one family, one moat
614 years. That is how long one family line has held the same moated platform in a side valley of the Spessart, in Lower Franconia. Hamann Echter was granted the land on May 1, 1412. A steep wooded valley, no village worth the name, nothing to sell but timber. His son walled it against Hussite r
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Heidelberg Castle lost its library to the Pope
1623. The finest library in the Palatinate is carried over the Alps and presented to the Pope. The Bibliotheca Palatina had been assembled at the Reformed court of the Electors Palatine at the Heidelberger Schloss. Tilly's Catholic League army stormed the town in 1622, and the library went s
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Hohenschwangau: the castle Ludwig grew up in
In May 1868 Ludwig II wrote to Richard Wagner about the ruins on the ridge opposite. The castle he meant to build there would be finer, he said, than das untere Hohenschwangau, the lower Hohenschwangau, desecrated every year by his mother's prose. The mother was Queen Marie. The house he was
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Château d’If: a rhinoceros started this fortress
A rhinoceros put this island on the map. King Manuel of Portugal was shipping the animal to Pope Leo X as a gift. When the ship put in at Marseille the beast was set down on the little island of If to wait, and crowds rowed out to gawp at it. François I was among them. He crossed on January 2
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Cochem: 179 Years a Ruin, Three Years a Castle
179 years. That is how long Reichsburg Cochem, above Cochem on the middle Moselle in Rhineland-Palatinate, sat as a ruin. French troops blew it up on May 19, 1689, three months after the same campaign leveled Heidelberg. In 1868 Prussia sold the wreck to Louis Ravené, a Berlin iron merchant,
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Hohenzollern Castle: no emperor held court here
Three German emperors came out of this family. Not one of them held a court in the castle built to celebrate it. Hohenzollern Castle stands at 855 meters on an isolated limestone cone in the Swabian Jura, with no town at its feet, no river below it and no other high ground competing with its sil
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Carcassonne Before the Roofs: 1881 to 1900
Every photograph in this post is at least a century old. Carcassonne, in the Aude in Occitanie, survives so completely because history made it useless. The 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees pushed the French border deep into the mountains. Overnight the fortress was guarding nothing. A token garris
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Frankenstein Castle: Mary Shelley never came
Mary Shelley was seventeen and a few days old when her boat tied up for a night at Gernsheim in 1814. Gernsheim is a Rhine town about sixteen kilometers from Frankenstein Castle. In clear weather a traveler might just make out towers on the distant hills. That is the whole of the geographic conn
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Cecilienhof: Tudor Gables, Cold War Table
It does not look like a palace, and that was the point. Schloss Cecilienhof, in the Neuer Garten at Potsdam, Brandenburg, is the last palace the Hohenzollerns ever built. Paul Schultze-Naumburg gave them an English country house: half-timbered gables, leaded windows, 176 rooms around five courty
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Marienberg: 466 Years on the Wrong Bank
The prince-bishops of Würzburg ruled their city from the wrong side of the Main. The cathedral, the markets and the burghers' houses stood across the water. Power lived on the hill. Festung Marienberg, in Lower Franconia in Bavaria, was their seat from 1253 until 1719. That is 466 years, and
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Castles & palaces, told two ways: the real history + how to visit 🏰